"Bangkok is known variously as the “City of Angels”, a paradise of earthly pleasures, the crossroads of east and west, a modern metropolis and yet a nemesis of town-planners, a traffic nightmare, the capital of a nation of smiling people, and so on. Bangkok is all of these things and more - it is excitingly unique, it is vibrant and it is charming."

Bangkok is probably one of the most interesting cities in the world. It’s an intoxicating mixture of aromas, sights and visual delights. A city of infinite layers - get beneath one and you'll reveal another - but that could take years. There are many great things about living in Bangkok, the combination of the exotic east with many of the comforts of home. Here you can spend the day visiting beautiful famous temples, eating spicy hot soup in a noodle stand in a back Soi (lane), or shopping at the local market for exotic fresh food. Then in the evening go out for a beer, see the latest Hollywood blockbuster, in English, at the local theatre or maybe go ice-skating or bowling. There is never a reason to be bored in Bangkok, with its world famous nightlife districts, five star gourmet restaurants, concerts, endless shopping arcades, delicious noodle stands, movie theatres, friendly people, sporting events, etc, Bangkok truly offers something for everyone."

Bangkok proper seethes on the east side of the Chao Phraya River, drawing rural Thai folk into its cluttered fold daily. The city is reportedly sinking at a rate of 90cm (36in) every year, but there's too much happening in this vibrant city for anyone to get that sinking feeling for too long. Stand still for a while and the sanook will soon take over.

When to Go

While there's really no bad time to visit Thailand's capital, rain and extreme heat are less frequent between November and February. In Bangkok, April is only recommended to those with portable air conditioners, while October brings the heaviest rains - these are probably the best times to be out of Thailand. The tourists flock to Bangkok in December and August, while the least crowded months tend to be May, June and September.

Air

The good news is that Bangkok is one of the cheapest places to fly out of; the bad news is that the price of getting there in the first place depends on the country of origin. If you find a cheap deal flying into Bangkok, snap it up because you'll always be able to locate a return ticket that's just as cheap or cheaper. For national travel, several domestic airlines operate within the country: Thai Airways International (THAI), Bangkok Airways and Angel Airways. International flights land and depart from the recently-renovated Bangkok international airport (save some baht for the US$13 departure tax); domestic flights leave from the nearby Don Muang airport.

Getting Around

Bangkok international airport is 25km (15mi) north of the city; the Don Muang domestic airport is only a short walk south of the international terminals. Buses run at regular intervals from Bangkok international to three major drop-off points in the city and cost around US$2, while trains leave from the nearby Don Muang station and zip into the main Bangkok station every 15 to 30 minutes.

Negotiating public transport around Bangkok can be bewildering at first but once you've nailed it, you'll find that most places in the city are easily accessible. The easiest and most novel way of getting around is via the river or canals (khlongs), although many of the waterways have been replaced with roads. The cheapest form of public transport is the bus system and it's probably worth the extra couple of baht for vehicles of the air-con variety, but you should be wary of being 'razored' (ie having your bag quietly slashed, and wallet removed, by dexterous thieves). The brand-spanking-new Bangkok Transit System (BTS) is a light elevated-rail system that crisscrosses the city, with all lines converging at Central Station.

The new light rail and underground systems are an overdue and desperate attempt to alleviate Bangkok's nightmarish traffic problem: the city is famous for its motorised jams and sheer volume of traffic. If the congestion doesn't faze you, you can hire cars and motorbikes, but you'd probably be better off hiring a taxi or tuk-tuk. If you're particularly desperate or have nerves of steel, hiring a motorcycle taxi is a possibility but the trip can often take on a Kamikaze quality.

Visas

US, UK, Ireland, Australian, Canadian, & New Zealand citizens are among those who may enter as tourists. Visas are not required for travel by these Passport holders for periods of 30 days or less (an extension of up to 10 days is possible). For periods longer than 30 days a visa must be obtained in advance.

All visitors to Thailand are required to carry a passport valid for at least 6 months after arrival date. A tourist visa allows you to stay for 60 days, and may be extended for a further 30 days at the discretion of the Immigration Office. You need to enter Thailand within 90 days of the visa being issued, otherwise it will be invalid. Before travelling to Thailand, visit the Thai Embassy in your country or ask your travel agent for advice.